Comunità Memorie Territori

Lun. Lug 14th, 2025
Cultura Società

GUIDA STORICO-TURISTICA DEI PAESI DEL MONDO: VIAGGIO IN COLOMBIA

di Editore

Paesaggi naturali mozzafiato tra giungla amazzonica, cime andine e coste caraibiche; tanta storia e cultura con i numerosi siti archeologici e le affascinanti cittadine coloniali: tutto questo è la Colombia, politicamente da sempre molto instabile. Il paese sudamericano è contrassegnato, infatti, dai disordini civili che vanno dall’epoca coloniale spagnola (XV-XIX secoli) ai giorni nostri. Quelli attuali riguardano la protesta anti-presidenziale per via della riforma fiscale, una vera e propria guerriglia urbana tra civili ed esercito, di cui i telegiornali di tutto il mondo aggiornano il numero quotidiano dei morti. La maggior parte di questi disordini è avvenuta negli anni ’80, con i “cartelli”, appoggiati dal terrorismo rosso, che comandavano e terrorizzavano il paese e che hanno reso la Colombia tristemente nota come patria di Pablo Escobar, del narcotraffico e della produzione di cocaina, ricavata dalla Erythroxylum coca, pianta tipica della flora sudamericana, di cui la Colombia numericamente detiene il primato mondiale. La nazione che prende il nome da Cristoforo Colombo ha avuto anche dei brevi periodi di pace e prosperità, e ci si augura che, grazie alla cultura e al calibro dei personaggi culturali mondiali del passato e del presente, possa uscire al più presto dall’instabilità. Per tutte le bellezze che possiede rientrerebbe sicuramente tra le mete turistiche più importanti del mondo. Tra i personaggi più celebri, si può citare per la letteratura il premio Nobel Gabriel Garcia Marquez, per l’arte Fernando Botero, per la musica Shakira e J Balvin. La Colombia vanta anche atleti di altissimo rango: i calciatori Carlos Valderrama e René Higuita (portiere noto per il bizzarro gesto tecnico in parata dello “scorpione”) degli anni 80/90 e i contemporanei Radamel Falcao e James Rodriguez; i ciclisti Nairo Quintana ed Egan Bernal, fresco vincitore del Giro d’Italia 2021. Lo Stato colombiano è una repubblica presidenziale con capitale Bogota’, la lingua ufficiale è lo spagnolo, la religione principale è il cattolicesimo, le etnie principali sono rappresentate da mestizos e i bianchi, la valuta ufficiale è il Peso colombiano, il fuso orario seguito è l’UTC-5, l’inno nazionale è “Oh Gloria inmarcesible” e la festa nazionale è il 20 luglio.

ESPERIENZE DI VIAGGIO TOP

1) La Città Vecchia di Cartagena

 Le lancette dell’orologio di Puerta del Reloj sembrano riportare indietro di quattro secoli i visitatori che attraversano le mura della città vecchia di Cartagena. Passeggiare per le vie di questa zona della città è come entrare in un romanzo di Gabriel García Márquez. I balconi dai colori pastello sono ricoperti di bougainvillee e le bancarelle di alimentari si susseguono intorno alle magnifiche chiese costruite dagli spagnoli. È una città vivace, in continuo fermento, dove il tempo però sembra essersi fermato diversi secoli fa.

2) Trekking a El Cocuy

Il sentiero Güicán-El Cocuy, percorribile in una settimana, nel Parque Nacional Natural El Cocuy è uno dei più famosi della Colombia. Nel periodo che va da dicembre a febbraio tutta la zona della Sierra Nevada del Cocuy è caratterizzata da albe fiammeggianti che illuminano di toni rosati le vette frastagliate e l’ecosistema páramo di valli glaciali, altopiani e laghi d’alta quota. Nelle giornate più limpide, dai punti panoramici a 4650 m potrete ammirare davanti a voi l’intera meravigliosa distesa di Los Llanos.

3) Museo dell’Oro di Bogotá

In pochi posti al mondo si può capire cosa significhi scoprire un tesoro sepolto da tempo immemorabile: il Museo dell’Oro di Bogotá – uno dei musei più incredibili del Sud America – vi farà sentire come dei novelli Indiana Jones. Oltre 55.000 oggetti in oro e altri materiali realizzati dalle principali civiltà preispaniche della Colombia sono esposti secondo un percorso tematico che termina con l’impressionante e complessa Balsa Muisca, riportata alla luce nel 1969.

4) Ecolodge sul Río Yavarí

Le dimensioni dell’Amazzonia sono quasi incalcolabili (solo la parte colombiana è più grande della Germania); non è dunque difficile trovare un posto dove pernottare nel vostro viaggio in questa zona. L’area protetta del Río Yavari’, che costituisce il confine tra Brasile e Perú oltre per 800 km, è però uno dei pochissimi luoghi di accesso a tutti e tre gli ecosistemi amazzonici: terra firme (foresta secca), varzea (foresta parzialmente inondata) e igapó (foresta allagata). E vi aspetta un’impressionante varietà di animali selvatici.

5) Spiagge del PNN Tayrona

Le spiagge del Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Tayrona, nei pressi di Santa Marta sulla costa caraibica, sono tra le più belle del paese. Le acque limpide lambiscono un litorale delimitato dalla giungla che scende dalla Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, la catena montuosa costiera più alta del mondo. Le incantevoli spiagge di sabbia bianca sono incorniciate da palme e punteggiate da enormi massi, alcuni spezzati a metà.

6) Le antiche statue di San Agustín

Sparse sulle dolci colline verdeggianti, le statue di San Agustín offrono l’opportunità di conoscere la cultura precolombiana più da vicino e sono uno dei reperti archeologici più importanti del continente. Sono stati portati alla luce più di 500 monumenti, scolpiti nella roccia vulcanica e raffiguranti animali sacri e figure antropomorfe. Numerose statue sono state raggruppate in un parco archeologico, ma molte sono rimaste nel sito originale e possono essere ammirate a piedi o a cavallo.

7) Barichara coloniale

C’è qualcosa di eccezionale nella magnifica Barichara, probabilmente il villaggio coloniale più suggestivo e meglio conservato della Colombia. I tetti color ruggine, le grandi vie lastricate, i muri imbiancati a calce e i balconi decorati con fiori spiccano su uno sfondo da cartolina, fatto di rilievi andini verdeggianti. A Barichara il tempo scorre lento – il nome significa ‘luogo di riposo’ nel dialetto regionale guane – e capita spesso di ritrovarsi a camminare per le sue strade come in un sogno ad occhi aperti, stregati dalla loro bellezza.

8) Avventure a San Gil

Rispetto ad altre città colombiane, a San Gil non c’è molto da vedere, ma la carenza di bellezze naturali è bilanciata dalla possibilità di praticare attività e divertimenti all’aperto. San Gil è il parco avventura della Colombia e qualunque sia la vostra attività preferita (discese in canoa, corda doppia, speleologia, bungee jumping o parapendio) avrete modo di dedicarvici. La zona è inoltre famosa per le terribili rapide di IV e V grado del Río Suárez. In acqua, in aria o per terra, mettete alla prova il vostro coraggio e le vostre capacità – San Gil non è un posto per deboli di cuore!

9) Medellín by night

Dopo il tramonto, Medellín dà il meglio di sé, con ristoranti eleganti e una vita notturna molto vivace. EI Poblado, in particolare, è pieno di locali raffinati, molti dei quali si trasformano in bar una volta chiusa la cucina. Da una certa ora in avanti, la movida si sposta nelle discoteche di Barrio Colombia e, a seguire, nelle mega-discoteche dell’Autopista Sur. Tappa obbligata prima di lasciare la città è quella ai bar di La Strada, frequentati da gente ricca e… rifatta!

10) Fattorie di caffè della Zona Cafetera

Salite in una vecchia jeep da guerra mondiale e partite per un tour di degustazione, immersi nell’aroma del caffè. Molte delle fattorie di caffè migliori della Zona Cafetera aprono le porte ai turisti, per mostrare loro ciò che rende unico il caffè colombiano e come viene prodotto. Prendete un cesto e andate nella piantagione a cogliere i chicchi, poi ritornate nella fattoria e godetevi il prodotto finale, accompagnati dal rumore dei fiumi che scorrono e dal canto degli uccelli.

SPECIALITA’ CULINARIE

La cucina colombiana viene definita comida criolla (cibo creolo) e presenta due distinte varianti regionali: la cucina degli altopiani, dove vive la maggior parte della popolazione, e quella delle coste caraibica e pacifica. Differiscono soprattutto per la disponibilità degli ingredienti (per esempio, c’è una prevalenza di pesce e plantani sulla costa). Nel paese la qualità delle materie prime è ottima e gli standard d’igiene nella loro preparazione sono alti: anche i viaggiatori con lo stomaco delicato troveranno di che nutrirsi. In cucina, la semplicità è la parola d’ordine. Riso, fagioli, un po’ di carne o pesce, un’insalata e un succo di frutta tropicale costituiscono il pasto tipico di molti colombiani. Il caffè è la bevanda più consumata in Colombia e il prodotto (legale) più esportato. Gli ambulanti girano per strada con thermos di caffè e latte e per poche monete vi verseranno in una tazzina di plastica un tinto (caffè nero, detto perico a Bogotá), un pintado (macchiato) o un caffe con leche (caffelatte).

TRASPORTI

Aereo La rete dei trasporti interni colombiani è capillare; le compagnie aeree importanti sono sette o otto e almeno una decina quelle minori. Sulle rotte più trafficate ci sono anche voli charter.

Autobus Gli autobus sono il principale mezzo di trasporto tra le città e arrivano quasi ovunque. La maggior parte degli autobus intercity a lunga percorrenza ha poltrone più comode della media dei voli aerei e quelli che viaggiano di notte a volte hanno sedili simili a quelli delle business class.

Automobile Il noleggio è costoso e, considerato che in autobus si va ovunque e si spende poco, non c’è motivo di viaggiare con un’auto propria.

Il chiva, un autobus molto speciale Il chiva è un veicolo che sembra uscito da Disneyland e che, fino a qualche decennio fa, era il principale mezzo di trasporto su strada della Colombia. Costruito quasi interamente in legno, è dipinto con motivi dai colori vivaci, tutti diversi, e ha un caratteristico disegno sul retro. Oggi i chivas sono praticamente scomparsi dalle strade principali, ma svolgono ancora un ruolo importante lungo le strade secondarie che collegano i piccoli centri e i villaggi. I chivas trasportano passeggeri e merci di ogni tipo, animali compresi: chi non trova posto all’interno è caricato sul tetto. In genere si radunano intorno ai mercati e da qui partono per i loro tragitti lungo strade accidentate.

SULLO SCHERMO

Apaporis (2010, José Antonio Dorado) Documentario sulla vita dei nativi nella regione amazzonica.

Maria Full of Grace (2004, Joshua Marston) Toccante vicenda di una ragazza che si ritrova incinta e coinvolta nel narcotraffico.

Perro come perro (2008, Carlos Moreno) Film di gangster alla Tarantino.

Rosario Tijeras (2004, Emilio Maillé) Thriller su una donna assetata di vendetta.

Todos tus muertos (2011, Carlos Moreno) Devastante critica alla corruzione e all’apatia che regna in Colombia.

Narcos (2015-2017, Chris Brancato, Carlo Bernard, Doug Miro) Eventi reali connessi alle vicende di alcuni dei più noti signori della droga e il lavoro delle forze dell’ordine che cercano di fermarne i loro affari illeciti.

IN LIBRERIA

Non c’è silenzio che non abbia fine (Ingrid Betancourt, 2010) Il racconto della vita ai confini della civiltà, e spesso oltre quelli dell’orrore.

La neve dell’ammiraglio (Álvaro Mutis, 1986) Primo romanzo del ciclo del marinaio Maqroll.

Delirium (Laura Restrepo, 2004) Indagine sulla follia personale e politica nella Bogotá della metà degli anni ’80.

Cent’anni di solitudine (Gabriel García Márquez, 1967) Capolavoro del realismo magico.

QUANDO ANDARE

ALTA STAGIONE (dicembre-febbraio) : • Sole e temperature miti in tutte le Ande. • Clima secco ovunque tranne che in Amazzonia. • San Andrés e Providencia sono magnifiche, come sempre.

STAGIONE INTERMEDIA (marzo-settembre) : • Seconda stagione delle piogge ad aprile/maggio a Bogotá, Medellín e Cali. • Whale-watching sulla costa del Pacifico da luglio a ottobre. • Cartagena è baciata dal sole ad aprile, le piogge iniziano a maggio.

BASSA STAGIONE (ottobre-novembre) : • Frequenti acquazzoni spazzano le strade della regione andina. • A ottobre Cartagena è estremamente umida. • Acqua bassa in Amazzonia: escursioni e spiagge di sabbia bianca.

Carmelo Galdieri, Francesco Maddaluno

By Editore

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